Table of contents.

Chapter 1.

Xhosa.

Bling.

Milestones.

izibulo:

Inkulu:

Inkwewnkwe:

Umkhwetha:

Ikrwala;

Umfana:

Unomgcana:

Chapter 2.

Jacob the jeweller.
Graff
Chain mail

Chapter 3. 

Theory work
My jewellery

showcase

Showcase. 

jewellery done for the my contemporary jewellery.

This look of jewellery is the type of craft that derives from the anthropology of a Xhosa man in a constructive attempt to produce contemporary jewellery. a i am looking at the Xhosa beaded jewellery and working towards making it to a bling look. This look is a planned reflection of my research report tittle Xhosa bling.

Indicator of status.

Indicating the status. 

The milestones.

Izibulo: The first born child of a married couple, either a boy or a girl.

Inkulu: Is the first born boy child, the inheritor, even if born after girls.

Inkwenkwe: a boy. looking after livestock, play with clay oxen, stick fighting.

umkhwetha: initiate, time of getting adult teachings, learns respect, and ways to honor ancestors.

Ikrwala: home coming,small unimportant man, wears red ocher.

Umfana: a worrier.

Unomgcana: married man.

A Xhosa mans life is a period of incredible growth in all areas of his development. Social and cultural development includes the manhood experience, expression and management of their social and cultural responsibilities in their community, and the ability to establish himself as indoda yamadoda. i would like to make contemporary jewellery that will help the image of a Xhosa man in the important milestones in his life. 

according to Sedycias R "The word jewelry is derived from Latin word jocale, means plaything. But it is the most ancient form of body ornamentation. In ancient times, jewelry was used to be made from bone, animal teeth, shells, wood, carved stones, etc. A specific piece was made for each part of the body. Apart from functional use, jewelry was a symbol of wealth, status and membership. It had been used to move wedding dowries, to keep large amount of wealth or to just for artistic display". As for Besten L "Because contemporary jewellery is difficult, it is important that people are wearing jewellery. The wearer is the intermediary between the maker and the viewer. What troubles me though is the fact that most collectors of contemporary jewellery are grey haired and (almost) retired. Where are the young supporters of author jewellery? Most of the old ones started collecting during the waves of new jewellery in the sixties, seventies and eighties – at least this is the case in The Netherlands. I don’t have the impression that there is a new audience for author jewellery. If my idea is right, I think this will be one of the biggest problems of contemporary jewellery in future: connecting to younger people".  Sedycias R. indications of status: Available:  https://www.streetdirectory.com/travel_guide/author/details/Roberto+Sedycias/ (accessed 30 march 2019) Besten, L 2007. Liesbeth den Besten: answers to the interview Market, lies and websites Available: https://klimt02.net/forum/interviews/market-lies-and-websites-klimt02-versus-klimt02-part-1/(Accessed 29 April 2019)

Ikwrala.

Milestone 

In traditional Xhosa society: a newly circumcised youth. A graduate of an initiation school.
Amaxhosa are a diversity of proud clans and these clans differ in their ways of practicing culture and customs. 
A graduate marched back from initiation school to their parental homes, the young men went indoors where girls of their own age helped them to smear themselves from top to bottom with a mixture of oil and red ocher. Every day, for the following year, the boy had to refresh his red ocher. He also had to walk slowly to demonstrate his humility and to signify that he was still a “small’, unimportant man. The different ways in which clothes and other accessories were worn signaled the status of the wearer and the clan he comes from, you can make a distinct differentiation in the way they dress, the smearing of the red ocher and the period they had to be ikrwala. The intensity of the color varying from clan to clan. you can see a mpondo new initiate by his dress code, and the intensity of the red ocher,including being on that milestone for a year,refer to figure 1. And you can also see the Xhosa new initiate, he throws a long scarf over one shoulder, which also serves as a cloak when it gets cold and he doesn't smear the red ocher, being on that milestone for a period of 6 months, refer to figure 2. today you see amakrwala (plural) wearing designer jerseys with a similar design of the mpodo headdress, and they also smear white ocher that is not red as that of the mpondo. being on that milestone for as long as they feel like, refer to figure 3. This a new look of an ikrwala. Early Adulthood (Ages 20-35):  Enterprise –  It takes enterprise for young adults to accomplish their many responsibilities, including finding a home and mate, establishing a family or circle of friends, and/or getting a good job.  This principle of enterprise thus serves us at any stage of life when we need to go out into the world and make our mark.
Cultural and community roles of ikrwala:
Cooking and washing up is done by these young men, and these young men are served with a dish separate from that of the senior men. Different ones from the elderly men take turns in lecturing to these young men, Gifts..are given by relatives and friends to enable them to set out in their new way of life. these roles were also used as an indicator of status, as Xhosa man had roles in their culture and communities.

figure 1. this is a mpondo graduate wearing a khaki blazer, khaki shirt with a striped hat on his head and smearing red ocher on his face.

figure 2. Xhosa graduate, throwing a long scarf over his shoulders, wearing a suit in a color of his choice. without smearing red ocher in his face.

   

figure 3. new style. modern look. ikrwala wearing a designer jersey a hat and smearing himself with white ocher.

Armstrong T. twelve stages of of life: Available: http://www.institute4learning.com/resources/articles/the-12-stages-of-life/ (accessed 29 july 2019)

Umkhwetha.

Milestone 

"Umkhwetha" (abakhwetha as plural)

You can see abakhwetha by wearing white,red striped blankets and buy smearing white ocher all over their bodies. they are always carrying sticks and bottles to keep their liquefied white ocher.

The grass hut behind the abakhwetha is called ibhoma, this where they will spend their duration of the circumcision process.

The Umkhwetha is an ancient custom of ritual circumcision still practiced by the Xhosa people. 'Umkhwetha' is a boy going through traditional rituals that include circumcision, and that, when complete, allow him to be regarded as a man. Traditionally he doesn't consume water or meat for a period of 8 days after the day of his circumcision.

This is a stage that mark the arrival of adulthood. Adolescence (Ages 12-20):  Passion –  The biological event of puberty unleashes a powerful set of changes in the adolescent body that reflect themselves in a teenager’s sexual, emotional, cultural, and/or spiritual passion.  Adolescence passion thus represents a significant touchstone for anyone who is seeking to reconnect with their deepest inner zeal for life.

 Abakhwetha are circumcised by an old man called ingcibi, inside a grass hut called ibhoma, far away from their homes, where they will spend the duration of the circumcised period. after being circumcised they are smeared with white ocher all over their bodies and given new white, red striped blankets and stick. they are also required to have a small bottle or a container they can use to keep their liquefied ocher, as they are required to have their bodies smeared with white ocher all the times. 

Armstrong T. 2019 (The Twelve Stages of the Human Life Cycle

available: http://www.institute4learning.com/resources/articles/the-12-stages-of-life/(Accessed 30 July 2019)

Inkwenkwe.

Milestone 

Inkwenkwe (boy) a male child.

u mama (mother) namakhwenkwe(boys) sitting in front of a hut, the mother is the one who takes care of the kids, teaches them, tell them stories while the father is out to provide for the family.

You can see Xhosa young boys by wearing straw hats and straw skirts. this picture also shows the stages young man has to go through to become a man, the boy on the left wearing a striped blanket (isikhoji) is ready to go though manhood, while the young man on the right with the white, red striped blanket is already in progression of manhood.  

inkwenkwe is a young male child; a child who will grow up to be a man. you can distinguish Xhosa young boys as wearing straw hats and straw skirts. Young boy roles are to help his mother in the household by running errands. the mother is the one who runs household, takes care of the kids, teaches them while the father is out to provide for the family. . Finding birds’ nests is one of the activities a boy does while in the wild herding livestock. Finding a bird’s nest with eggs, marking it as his property and taking care of it is one of the things that develops a boy to manhood. Stick fighting is an art that Xhosa young man learn from an early age when they are out in the veld (pastures) herding cattle. This is where the training starts because they will use this skill to defend themselves and their families when they grow to be man. these young boys are Teenagers: 12-18 yrs. Adolescence can be a challenge for parents. Your youngster may at times be a source of frustration and exasperation, not to mention financial stress. But these years also bring many, many moments of joy, pride, laughter and closeness. This is when a boy on the left is ready to go though manhood, while the young man on the right with the white, red striped blanket is already in progression of manhood. 

AMERICA ACADEMY OF PEDIATRICS.

available: https://www.healthychildren.org/english/ages-stages/pages/default.aspx (Accessed 28 july 2019)

                                                    

Inkulu.

Milestone 

Inkulu (The first born son).

Siblings, the older child is Inkulu, the first born of the family.

In the Xhosa culture INKULU is the first born son, the one eligible for inheritance. The

Inheritor could have been fortunate enough to inherit the homestead and the livestock of his

father. Of which could be converted into goods, exchange of livestock for vegetables and

paying lo bola including other services should a need arise in the society. (Metcalf 1998) "In most primitive of African tribesman, there was no lucrative investment or a bank account. " Whether you're firstborn, middle child, last-born, or only child, birth order can have a big effect on your personality and behavior. Firstborns bask in their parents' presence, which may explain why they sometimes act like mini-adults. Firstborns are diligent and want to be the best at everything they do. They excel at winning the hearts of their elders. The inheritor could only be fortunate enough to inherit a homestead and cows which could be converted to goods. the inheritor As the leader of the pack, firstborns often tend to be has to be reliable as in the African culture they say "children bury the parents" he is the on who will take the responsibilities of his parents and take care of his siblings.

Voo J 2015. How Birth Order Affects Your Child's Personality and Behavior: available: https://www.parents.com/baby/development/social/birth-order-and-personality/(Accessed 26 july 2019)

Izibulo.

Milestone

Izibulo. (umntwana)

Umntwana (child).

amaso, beads that a necklace for the child is made of, also believe to help the child with teething and growing.

Siblings, the older child is Izibulo, the first born.

A firstborn (also known as an eldest child) is the first child born to in the birth order of a couple through childbirth. AmaXhosa, like all Africans, believe in ancestors, through which they communicate with God. When a child is born a ritual called imbeleko is performed to introduce a child to their ancestors and vice versa.

After the umbilical cord falls off, there is a ritual known as the Inkaba, this has to do with the proper burial of the cord in a place that is considered sacred because it is a place where one communicates with the ancestors and spirit world. This ritual is believed to be associated with the spiritual and supernatural, In spite of all technical sophistication, (Metcalf, 1998) "jewellery is still used for much same reason as the most primitive African communities". A necklace made that included certain beads called Amaso (see figure 2) (the beads that a necklace for the child is made of, also believe to help the child with teething and walking) the necklace is manufactured by a grandmother, the necklace is also believed to offer magical powers and protection to the child. This necklace is a condensed symbol for the child protection. This summarizing harmonious environment for the child. The child intimate contact between the beads and the child becomes a constant reminder of his or her protection. 

Childbirth Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Childbirth (accessed 28 april 2019)

Birth order Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birth_order (accessed 28 april 2019)

Bling Bling.

Bling.

Bling comes from the word bling bling which is a slang term popularized on hip hop culture, referring to flashy, ostentatious or elaborate jewellery, and ornamented accessories that are carried, worn or installed such as cellphones or tooth caps. The reason for choosing bling bling is because it is deeply attached to hip hop culture as one of its elements and is used to signal the status of the wearer, hip hop is a culture and art movement but it has become a culture of materialism. Now it is known for its negative reputation. It is often thought as an entrance way into gangs, illegal drug activity, and malicious behavior. This is because hip-hop has moved away from what it was supposed to be used for. Hip hop culture has found its ways all over the world particularly on the Youth.

Now living in the world of materialism I want to attempt to bring the two cultures together, I am using Xhosa culture for the content of my research report and bling for the flashy, ostentatious look to elaborate the look of my contemporary jewellery. through seeing the effects of materialism in my community I deeply feel a sense of responsibility in manufacturing contemporary jewellery that is flashy with a narrative of the Xhosa social and cultural norms that will construct a Xhosa man. Therefore I will be using the anthropology of a Xhosa man to produce bling contemporary jewellery. from a boy to a man there are roles that a Xhosa man is responsible for. i am particularly looking at the adornments worn which i believe were distinctively able to distinguish and signal the status of the wearer and those that were worn at celebrations of particular social and cultural events of milestones.

Nas and slick rick who are american hip hop rap artists wearing lots of pieces of jewelry that is considered bling bling.

Xhosa man wearing lot of beaded jewellery of which i consider to be Bling bling.

Amaxhosa.

AmaXhosa.

Using the anthropology of a Xhosa man to produce Xhosa bling contemporary jewellery.

The Xhosa is the people, who refer to themselves as Amaxhosa, they are of Nguni stock, now found mostly in the southern part of South Africa, particularly the eastern cape. they have a diversity of proud clans, the Pondo, Bomvana, Thembu, Gcaleka, Ngqika, Ndlambe and Dushane and the Xhosa tribe itself. Red and the orange of ochre were the traditional colors of the Xhosa, Tembu and Bomvana (“the red ones”). The Xhosa people are friendly and accommodating. Their tradition encourages the adoption of positive attitudes in life. As such, life becomes an act of celebration. This has made song and dance also distinguish them from other communities in South Africa. i chose the Xhosa clan for my research report is because firstly i am a Xhosa man and secondly i think the story of a Xhosa man needs to be told, as i have this belief that their social and cultural norms in their milestone can construct a life of a man in having a deep sense of his community and be a productive member of his society. 

This a Xhosa woman wearing glamorously, highly decorated with garments laced with different color beads including smearing her face with red and orange ochre and face dotted herself with white ochre.